giga jul vs mega jul
The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. Super Versatile belay device. Giga comes from the Greek word for giant, and the first use of the term is believed to have taken place at the 1947 conference of the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry. Belay & Rappel Devices. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/belays/edelrid_mega_jul-6739. Instant free online tool for giga to mega conversion or vice versa. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Perfect for abbing to remove gear for example. Being keen trad climbers we were keen to try this device out after first encountering it at the summer trade show of 2018 - you can see the film below. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good as any standard tuber-style belay device on the market. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. This doesn't mean that you can belay without your brake hand but it does indicate how sensitive the locking system is. These fed well and gave good locking when required without being a total lock, including in brake assist mode. In this case you usually only take the rope in and having it on brake assist is actually a bonus, especially if your following climber needs a tight rope since you can do this easily without having to sustain tension with your brake hand. Edelrid Giga Jul . The giga [G] to mega [M] conversion table and conversion steps are also listed. The design is also clever in that it ensures that you do always have your brake hand on the rope in the correct position. I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. For the most part, you would only ever abseil in manual mode. The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. You could abseil in brake assist mode, however it becomes very stiff and difficult to feed the rope through especially if you have a lot of rope weight dangling below. Unique in that it offers an assisted belay mode with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut Smart. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with a test sample for review but of course this did not influence us in any way. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. re: Mega Drain vs. Giga Drain It would have been nice though if they raised mega drain to somewhere between 50 and 60 damage, for improved technician shenanigans with Roserade. Itâs not without a few drawbacks though. The most versatile ever belay device. You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. The MSRP is $50. This is slightly tricky to get used to. Well, for us, it fills a hole left in the range by the assisted-braking only policy adopted by Edelrid, and that is an assisted braking device with a conventional belay option built in. If there's a big weight difference between lead climber and belayer, the Edelrid Ohm offers a genuine safety gain. The Giga Jul claims to work on ropes from 7.1mm to 10mm. This poses the question - what happens if you thread it the wrong way when in brake assist mode? To do this we will look at each mode, individually commenting on performance starting with the Manual mode belaying from the bottom, the Assisted Brake mode from the bottom and lastly a top-down direct anchor belay. I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. This includes when itâs used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. Jul 2 Belay Kit Steel Triple. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. Firstly, the device is much larger and heavier than any of the other Juls. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. You can ab the normal way with a prussik if you want but the locking mode with an additional krab as a handle works great.